Free knitting patterns

Teeny tiny knitted toys

Here is a free pattern to make some teeny tiny toys - just under 2.5 inches (6 cms) tall.

It's a wee bit fiddly but lots of fun!

What you will need:

some left-over scraps of 4ply yarn in pink, black and fur colour (brown/ cream / grey...) a small circle of felt (for the back of the face - to prevent the tiny stitches pulling through), 1 pair of 2.25mm needles and 2 double pointed 2.25mm needles.

With your fur colour yarn and 2.25mm needles cast on 13 stitches - leaving a tail of around 5 inches for sewing up later.

Purl the first row and knit the next. Continue in stocking stitch until work measures 1.5 inches (4cms), approx 18 rows in total.

Cut the work from the ball of yarn leaving around 6 inches for sewing up and thread a needle with this end. Thread the cast off end through the stitches on the needle.

Now take your small circle of felt and place at the back of the work behind where you plan to embroider the face. Using the pink yarn embroider a small nose in centre of face - I use 1 stitch across and 1 small stitch downwards. Knot the yarn at the back of the work and trim ends off. Now add the eyes with the black yarn - you can tie a small knot in the thread to make the eye stand out. Again knot the thread at the back of the work and tie ends securely trimming off excess.

Place a small ball of stuffing behind face and join the back seam of the body using mattress stitch (follow link & scroll down). Tie a length of yarn tightly around the body around half way up to give your toy a neck and thread ends through the body before trimming off excess. Stuff the body cavity. Thread a needle with the cast on tail and use this to catch up the loops around the bottom of the body.

Pull up tightly to gather seam and seal body cavity. Tie off tightly and thread ends through the body before trimming off excess.

Now make the limbs (4 the same). Cast on 4 stitches with the double pointed needles and knit a short i-cord - around 8 - 10 rows in length. Cut the work from the ball and thread end through the stitches on the needles and then through the middle of the work - knotting it securely to the cast on tail.

For rabbit ears cast on 5 stitches.
K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 - repeat this row 5 times more to give 6 rows from cast on.
7th row: K1, P3 together, K1
8th row: K1, P1, K1
9th row: K1, K2 together, pass 1st stitch over.

Cut the work from ball of yarn and thread the end through the last stitch to cast off. Using the cast off tail thread this through the centre of the ear and tie to cast on tail.

(To make ears for a bear cast on 3 stitches, knit 1 row, cast off 3. Tie cast on and cast off ends together tightly and sew in place.)

Assemble all of the body parts.

Join the ears to the top of the head with a few stitches. Knot ends securely together and thread through the body before trimming excess.

Repeat with all of the limbs. And there you have an itty, bitty bunny!

I hope you enjoy making this. As always please feel free to knit up to keep or as gifts / charity fundraising but please do not knit up for commercial purposes or reproduce the pattern without first seeking permission.

This pattern is an original design. You are welcome to knit up for personal use but please don't use it for commercial purposes, thanks. Copyright Julie Williams 2008.

knitted easter egg decoration

This pattern uses oddments of  4 ply yarn (I usually work it in cotton - such as Rowan Cotton 4ply) and uses 2.75 mm needles. My tension works out to 8 stitches and 10 rows per inch.

The egg is knitted flat and then seamed using mattress stitch. You can stuff the finished egg with polyfil / wool / cotton wadding or it will fit around a polystyrene egg (see here for supplies within the UK).

Row 1: Cast on  11 stitches (leaving a length of yarn about 6 inches for sewing up later)
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: K2, (*M1, K1) 8 times, K1 (19 stitches) *M1=make one,
Row 4: Purl
Row 5: K2, (M1, K1) 16 times, K1 (35 stitches)
Row 6: Purl
Row 7: Knit
Row 8: Purl
Row 9: K3, M1, (K2, M1) 6 times, K3, M1 (K2, M1) 7 times, K3 (50 stitches)
Row 10: Purl

Row 11: Change to yarn colour for pattern band - work chosen pattern band over the next 12 rows (see charts below for pattern suggestions) or simply use a contrasting colour for middle 12 rows.

Zig zag pattern using 3 colours:

Polka dot pattern using 2 colours:

Stripe pattern using 2 or more colours:

gingham pattern using 3 colours:

Or why not design your own band (50 stitches x 12 rows):

Row 23: change yarn colour and work 2 rows without shaping
Row 25: K3, K2 tog, (K2, K2tog) 11 times, K1 (38 stitches)
Row 26: purl
Row 27: K2, K2 tog, (K1, K2tog) 11 times, K1 (26 stitches)
Row 28: purl
Row 29: knit
Row 30: purl
Row 31: K1, (K2 tog) 12 times, K1 (14 stitches)
Row 32: purl
Cut the work from the yarn leaving an end around 6 inches long, thread end through stitches on needle and pull up tight. Use this end to begin sewing up the seam. Sew around 1 inch of seam and then begin seaming at other end of egg.

If you want to hang the egg as a decoration then cut a length of ribbon and tie the ends together. Thread the loop through the gathered stitches at the pointed end of the egg leaving the knotted part inside.

At the other end of the egg thread the length of yarn left by the cast on and use to catch up the 11 stitch loops and up pull tight. Continue in mattress stitch to close the seam - leaving around 2 inches of unclosed seam to stuff the egg (if using polyfil or similar). If you are fitting it around a polystyrene egg just sew around half an inch of seam at either end and close the rest of the seam with the polystyrene egg in place.

When the seams meet tie off ends and thread inside trimming off any excess ends.

This pattern is an original design. You are welcome to knit up for personal use but please don't use it for commercial purposes, thanks. Copyright Julie Williams 2008.

 

knitted letter charts / alphabet

   to

I designed these charts for a college typography project longer ago than I care to mention! In the past I have used the letters on jumpers for some of the toys but as I'm no longer able to take on orders I thought I'd share them. You can group them to spell out words or use them singly on projects where you want an initial. The full charts are here.

This pattern is an original design. You are welcome to knit up for personal use but please don't use it for commercial purposes, thanks. Copyright Julie Williams 2008.

knitted holly

This is a bit fiddly but worth the effort and if you can interpret my instructions I'm sure you'll be pleased with the way that you get a distinct vein up the centre of the leaf.

Hopefully I've explained it well enough to follow - if you have any suggestions on a better description of the twisted stitch please drop me a line.

Many thanks!

Holly:

Using 2.25mm needles and 4ply yarn cast on 3 stitches
Purl
K1, YO, K1, YO, K1
P1, twist a*, YO, P1, YO, P2
K2, twist b**, YO, K1, YO, K into back of next stitch, K2
P3, twist a*, P5 (9 stitches)
K2tog through the back, K5, K2tog
P2tog, p3, P2together through the back
K2, YO, K1, YO, K2
P2, twist a*, YO, P1, YO, P3
K3, twist b**, K1, K into back of next stitch, K3 (9 stitches)
P2tog, P5, P2together through the back
K2tog through the back, K3, K2 tog
P2tog, P1, P2tog through the back
K1, K2 together pass first stitch over, pull end through  to cast off

Abbreviations:
YO = wrap yarn around needle once to make a stitch

* twist a = insert right hand needle into the back of the made stitch purlwise, slip onto the righthand needle and slip back onto the lefthand needle so that what was the back of stitch becomes the front. Purl into back of this stitch)

** twist b = insert right hand needle into the front of the made stitch knitwise, slip onto the righthand needle and slip back onto the lefthand needle so the back of stitch becomes the front. Knit this stitch )

To make berries:
Cast on 3
P3
K1, YO, K1, YO, K1
P5
K5
P5
K2tog through the back, K1, K2tog
Slip 1, P2 tog through the back pass slip stitch over, thread end through to cast off
Tie both cast on and cast off ends together and use one end to sew base together and make a small ball

Making up
Sew 2 leaves together at a slight angle, position desired number of berries in centre and sew in place.

This pattern is an original design. You are welcome to knit up for personal use but please don't use it for commercial purposes, thanks. Copyright Julie Williams 2008.

knitted cupcake decoration

 
Materials:
a few oddments of yarn in cream, chocolate, pink and red
I use 4ply cotton yarn with 2.25mm needles (size 1 US, UK/Canada 13)
seed beads / sequins / decorations

Pattern:

Cast on 15 stitches with the cream colour for the cake case
Row1:   (K1, P1) 7 times, K1
Row2:   (P1, K1,) 7 times, P1
Row3:   as row 1
Row4:   as row 2
Row5:   as row 1
Row6:   as row 2
Row7:   as row 1
Row8:   as row 2
Row9:   K1, (P1, wrap yarn once around needle* K1) 7 times      * to make a stitch
Row10: (P1, Knit into the front of made stitch, K1) 7 times, P1
Row11: (K1, P2) 7 times, K1
Row12: cast off, keeping ribbing correct

Row13: With chocolate cake coloured yarn pick up and knit 15 stitches from the back of the finished case (around 1 row down from the cast off edge) taking 1 alternately from the purl rib and 1 from the knit rib.
Row14: purl a further row in cake colour
Row15: change yarn to pink colour for the icing and knit 1 row
Row16: knit a row
Row17: purl a row
Row18: knit a row
Row19: P2tog, P 11, P2tog through the back
Row20: K2tog through the back, K9, K2tog
Row21: P2tog, P 7, P2tog through the back
Row22: K2tog through the back, K5, K2tog
Row23: P2tog, P 3, P2tog through the back
Row24: cast off remaining stitches

Cherry on the top:
Cast on 4 in red yarn
knit 1 row
(P2tog) twice, pass 1st stitch over the second and pull end through to secure.

alternatively you could use a fabric flower instead of the cherry or cut a small circle of red felt.

To Finish:
Sew cherry on to top. Sew in ends neatly on reverse. Sew on beads / sequins and attach to T-shirt / tea cosy / greeting card etc...

This pattern is an original design. You are welcome to knit up for personal use but please don't use it for commercial purposes, thanks. Copyright Julie Williams 2008.

knitted flower pattern

Can be used singley as a decoration on clothing and accessories or grouped to make a posy and sewn onto a hairband or hairslide. Knitting it in green will give you a shamrock / lucky clover. I’m sure there are lots of other uses too.

Materials: Using 2.25mm (USA size 1, UK/Canadian size 13) needles and 4 ply yarn

Pattern:

cast on 5 stitches
row 1: **slip 1, knit 3. turn leaving remaining stitch unworked
row 2: purl 3, turn leaving remaining stitch unworked
row 3: knit 3, turn leaving remaining stitch unworked
row 4: purl 3, turn leaving remaining stitch unworked
row 5: knit 4
row 6: purl 2 together, purl 1, purl 2 together (3 stitches)
row 7: knit 1, knit 2 together and pass first stitch over to give 1 stitch on needle
Use this stitch to cast on 4 more stitches (5 in total) and repeat from ** to give desired number of petals (3, 4 or 5)

To finish:
thread end through last remaining stitch and then gather up the middle of the flower by catching up  2 stitches the from base of each ‘petal’, pulling up tight and tying off the ends.

Attach to article and sew a contrasting french knot / button / felt circle in the centre of flower.

Working on the middle stitches only gives the ‘petal’ a natural curl. Once the flower is finished you can choose to curl petals up or down.

This pattern is an original design. You are welcome to knit up for personal use but please don't use it for commercial purposes, thanks. Copyright Julie Williams 2008.

knitted mini christmas stockings

I knit this stocking flat
A) because I don't enjoy knitting in the round and
B) because I think it gives greater flexibility in working fairisle and other intarsia designs.

I tend to work it on double pointed needles because during heel shaping you need to switch from working one side to the other. You can knit it on regular needles but slide the work across onto a second needle at appropriate time. Apart from the stocking top it is worked in stocking stitch (knit on right side and purl on reverse)

Materials:
oddments of yarn. I prefer to knit these on 2.75 mm needles with pure cotton 4ply but the pattern will knit up with whatever you prefer. Note, obviously the larger the needle size and thicker the yarn, the larger the finished stocking. Before you start, decide which colour you are going to knit the heel in and cut a length at least 110cm (44”) keep to one side for second heel shaping*.

PATTERN:

Cast on 25 sts, **(27 if knitting a fairisle design)
knit 3 rows
row 4: (right side) begin pattern (if required)
work a total of 14 rows of pattern
**if working in fairisle design: on last wrong side row of pattern decrease 1 stitch at either end to give 25 stitches

Start at the bottom of the chart for the patterns

Heel shaping:
I like to use different coloured yarn to accentuate heel. The heel is worked in 2 halves.
row 18: with right side facing, k7 and turn leaving remaining stitches on needle
row 19: slip 1, p6
repeat these 2 rows 3 more times until 8 rows of heel have been worked
row 26: k3, k2tog through the back, k1, turn leaving 1 remaining stich of heel on needle (see photo step 1)

row 27: slip 1, p4
row 28: k2, k2tog through the back, turn leaving remaining 2 stiches on needle
row 29: slip 1, p2
row 30: k2, k2tog through the back, k1, turn
row 31: slip 1, p3
leaving these 4 stitches on needle with the main part of the stocking, slide all the work along needle, turn with wrong side facing and resume working the other side of the heel (see photo step 2).

reverse row 18: with wrong side facing and using 110cm length of yarn cut earlier*, p7 and turn leaving remaining stitches on needle
reverse row 19: slip 1, k6
repeat these 2 rows 3 more times until 8 rows of heel have been worked
reverse row 26: p3, p2tog, p1, turn leaving 1 remaining stich of heel on needle
reverse row 27: slip 1, k4
reverse row 28: p2, p2tog, turn leaving remaining 2 stiches on needle
reverse row 29: slip 1, k2
reverse row 30: p2, p2tog, p1, turn
reverse row 31: slip 1, k3

row 32: with right side facing rejoin main colour and begin knitting across first 4 stitches of heel shaping, pick up 5 stitches from inside edge of heel (see photo step 3), knit 11 stitches across main part of stocking, pick up 5 stitches from inside edge of 2nd heel half and knit final 4 stitches (29 stitches on needle) (see photo step 4)

row 33: purl
row 34: K8, k2tog, k9, k2tog through the back, k8
row 35: p7, p2tog through the back, p9, p2tog, p7
row 36: K6, k2tog, k9, k2tog through the back, k6 (23 stitches)
row 37: purl
work 8 rows
row 46: with right side facing change colour for toe cap (see photo step 5) and work 2 rows

row 48: K3, K2tog through the back, k4, k2tog, k1, k2tog through the back, k4, k2tog, k3
row 49: purl
row 50: K3, K2tog through the back, k2, k2tog, k1, k2tog through the back, k2, k2tog, k3 (15 stitches) (see photo step 6)

row 51: purl

Cut work from the ball leaving a long end for sewing up. Thread end through 15 stitches on needle (see photo step 7) and pull up tight.

Join seam running up bottom and back of stocking using mattress stitch (see photo step 8).

Turn inside out and tie up all ends securely and trim - no need to sew them in. Turn right side out.

Hanging loop: cast on 35 stitches and then cast them off. Double strip over to make a loop and sew to back of stocking. Secure with a cute button.

This pattern is an original design. You are welcome to knit up for personal use but please don't use it for commercial purposes, thanks. Copyright Julie Williams 2008.

Any problems or comments please email me.